Expert Advice from a London Hair & Scalp Specialist

Brushing Your Hair: Top Tips from a Trichologist

Brushing your hair may seem like the simplest thing in the world, but done right, it's one of the most effective ways to support scalp health and natural hair growth. As trichologists, we often see clients surprised by how much technique, pressure, and brush type matter when it comes to keeping hair strong and healthy.

Taking a few minutes to brush your hair thoroughly each day is a simple ritual that can make a big difference in the health and appearance of your locks. But there’s a right way and a wrong way to do it! Proper technique with the right brush stimulates circulation, distributes oils, minimises breakage, and leaves hair detangled with a smooth, shiny finish.

Brushing your hair correctly is vital to keeping your hair healthy and in good condition.

Daily brushing isn't just about looking tidy - it's a scalp care ritual.

Brushing stimulates blood flow to the follicles, helping deliver oxygen and nutrients that support healthy growth. It also spreads natural oils (sebum) evenly along the hair shaft, improving shine and softness while reducing dryness and breakage.

Be gentle. It is important to remember not to brush your hair too roughly and make sure you have a good quality brush. I often get asked questions about hair brushing including  "does brushing your hair make it thicker" or "does brushing your hair make you go bald" So here is my guide to brushing your hair correctly and brushing hair benefits.

Follow these top tips to maximise the benefits of your daily brushing sessions.
Whether you're managing a hair loss condition or simply aiming to care for your scalp more consciously, these practical, science-backed tips will help you get the most out of every stroke.

What's the Best Way to Brush Your Hair?

The best way to brush you hair is to use light gentle strokes regardless of your hair type. Always start from the ends and work upwards. This 'bottom-up' approach helps you detangle gradually without tugging or tearing at the roots. Use small sections, a few centimetres at a time, and if your hair tangles easily, mist on a light detangling spray first to reduce friction.

The Golden Rule is : Always start brushing your hair gently from the ends towards the roots, to get rid of any tangles prior to brushing through.

Trichologist's tip: Use long, gentle strokes, not short, sharp ones. Think of brushing as a scalp massage rather than a styling task.

Should You Brush Your Hair Upside Down?

Brushing your hair with your head upside down is the best way to increase blood flow to the scalp. This may promote hair growth by increasing blood flow to your hair follicles.

Once you’ve removed any tangles whilst upright. Bend from the waist and gently brush from the nape of the neck, upwards. Make sure you brush to the sides of the crown and work through to the front of the head. Then, stand up straight and brush as normal.

Choosing the Right Hair Brush

Selecting the right brush makes a world of difference. A good quality hair brush is a great investment towards great looking hair. There are a number of fantastic brushes available for everyday use and smaller ones for travelling.

• Paddle brushes are best for straight styles or smoothing flyaways.
• Round brushes help add bounce and body when blow-drying.
• Vented brushes allow airflow, speeding up drying and giving gentle lift at the roots.

With the array of hair brushes available, it can be tricky to select the right one for your hair type and needs. Natural bristles like boar bristles are ideal for smooth, glossy results but can be rougher on fine or damaged hair. If your hair is fine or fragile, opt for nylon or silicone bristles, which offer more flexibility and reduce pulling.

Wider spaced bristles work best for thick, textured, or curly hair that needs help detangling. Those with fine, thin hair do better with more closely spaced bristles to provide tension and add body. Paddle brushes have wide surfaces to straighten, while round brushes excel at creating volume and bounce with curling motions.

Vented brushes, like Denman’s are great for blow drying roots, creating volume and speeding up the drying process. In general, aim for flexible silicon bristles if your hair is fragile and prone to splitting. Also look for cushioned and rubberised bases - this helps the brush glide while preventing excessive scalp irritation.

Choosing Styling Brushes

• Paddle brushes are best for straight styles or smoothing flyaways.
• Round brushes help add bounce and body when blow-drying.
• Vented brushes allow airflow, speeding up drying and giving gentle lift at the roots.

The type of brush you use when styling dry hair also matters. Round brushes excel at creating bend, lift and volume with curling motions. Smaller round brushes help shape tighter curls while larger barrels give loose waves with lots of body at the roots. Brushes with ceramic coating give a smooth and sleek finish when blowdrying.

Vented brushes allow rapid airflow, making them ideal for blow drying roots. The widely spaced plastic pins massage the scalp as you direct the warm air.



Paddle brushes have flat surfaces perfect for straightening hair shaft fibres. The short densely packed bristles provide light tension to smooth and defrizz the tresses. When used correctly, styling brushes take your look to the next level.

Avoid Over-Brushing or Aggressive Strokes

It's a myth that 'the more you brush, the thicker your hair becomes.' In fact, over-brushing or using excessive force can cause traction and lead to unnecessary breakage, especially on fragile or thinning hair.

Always take your time and be gentle when brushing your hair. Work in manageable sections rather than haphazardly. A quality brush paired with a gentle touch will prevent excessive pulling and damage while thoroughly detangling stands.

If you hit a knot, hold the section above the tangle to avoid pulling at the scalp, and brush gently through the ends first. This minimises stress on strands. Take your time working through knots. Patience beats pressure, always.

Section clean, dry hair first.

Start underneath at the nape of your neck, brushing downward from mid-shaft to ends. Work all the way around the back and sides before moving to the top and front.

Once thoroughly detangled, now work in organised sections to make sure that your hair is brushed thoroughly from root to ends.

Then, move to vertical partings, separating hair from ear to ear and working each section from mid-length to ends. This ensures the underneath layers don’t get missed.

Finally, brush hair following its natural growth pattern from scalp to ends.

How often should you brush your hair?

I would recommend brushing your hair twice a day, once in the morning and before bed. Most people do well brushing twice a day, once in the morning to distribute oils and once before bed to remove product build-up and stimulate the scalp.

Should You Brush Wet Hair?

As a rule, avoid brushing wet hair, particularly if your strands are fine, dry, or chemically treated. Hair can stretch up to 70% when wet, leaving it vulnerable to snapping.

Instead, use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb while conditioner is in your hair. This allows you to gently detangle without damaging the cuticle. I would recommend using your fingers to do this since, a good conditioner detangles without the need for brushing and or combing .

Boosting Circulation: The Scalp Massage Technique

A healthy scalp equals healthy hair. Give yourself a five-minute fingertip massage each day. Small circular motions across the crown, sides, and nape of your neck help stimulate blood flow and support follicle strength.

You can improve the nutrition of your scalp by encouraging blood flow and circulation of your scalp. Give yourself a gentle head massage with your fingertips (pads) around your scalp in circular movements. Do this for for 5 to 10 minutes daily. This will help to improve the blood circulation and stimulate the hair follicles.

At our London trichology clinic, we often include a professional scalp massage as part of our restorative treatment plans. Clients often find it not only promotes healthier growth but also helps relieve stress and tension.

In Summary, Brush with Care, Not Force

Remember, brushing is not just about tidiness; it's about circulation, oil balance, and mindful care that supports long-term scalp health.

Healthy hair starts with a proper brushing foundation. Select the right brush, take a systemic sectioning approach, brush gently yet thoroughly from mid-shaft to ends, and use styling brushes to perfect your look. Happy brushing!